Goa in December: things to do week by week, and what to book first

What is there to do in Goa in December?

December has more on than any other month in Goa, and the mood shifts week by week, from pilgrims in Old Goa at the start to New Year crowds at the end.

Every week also has the three markets Goa Tourism lists: Anjuna Flea Market on Wednesdays (roughly 10 AM to sunset), Mapusa's market on Fridays and the Saturday Night Market at Arpora.

How does Goa celebrate Christmas?

Goa celebrates Christmas at church and at home, and the village version is the one worth seeing. Through December, paper stars hang outside houses, cribs appear in gardens and chapels, and churches are lit up for the season. Many churches hold a midnight mass late on Christmas Eve. Visitors are generally welcome: arrive early, dress modestly and treat it as a service rather than a show, which means no flash photography. Goan families also make trays of Christmas sweets, and bakeries sell them through the month, so buy some when you see them. For history on a larger scale, the Basilica of Bom Jesus and Se Cathedral in Old Goa, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, draw crowds of pilgrims around the Feast of St Francis Xavier on 3 December. Panaji's Fontainhas quarter and the church above its main square look their best in the early evening.

How do you plan New Year's Eve in North Goa?

Plan New Year's Eve around where you sleep, because moving across North Goa on the night of 31 December is slow and expensive.

1. Celebrate close to your base. Roads jam in the evening, taxis are scarce and fares climb.
2. Book dinner or party tickets early and confirm what's included.
3. Fix your ride home before you go out.
4. Skip the beach bottle. Drinking on Goa's beaches is banned, with fines of ₹2,000 for individuals and ₹10,000 for groups, so a do-it-yourself beach party with your own drinks isn't allowed.
5. Stay out of the sea at night. No lifeguards are on duty and the beach is crowded.
6. Don't ride a scooter after drinking, and save 112, India's emergency number.

For resorts hosting the night itself, see New Year celebration resorts in North Goa.

Daytime plans for the busiest weeks

December days go better when you do the popular things early and the quiet things in the afternoon.

• Chapora Fort before mid-morning, when the path is less crowded.
• Markets: Anjuna on Wednesday, Mapusa on Friday, Arpora on Saturday night.
• Inland: a spice farm near Ponda or a Mandovi river cruise from Panaji. Our list of things to do in North Goa besides beaches has more.
• Turtles: Daijiworld reported the first Morjim nests of the last two seasons on 25 and 26 December, and nesting runs to March. Keep away from the Forest Department's fenced hatchery and keep lights off the beach at night.
• Quieter sand: Morjim, Ashwem and Mandrem stay calmer than Calangute and Baga, even at Christmas.

Which booking rules catch December visitors out?

The rules that catch December visitors out are about dates, not prices. December is the top of peak season, so rates rise, rooms sell out and restaurant tables go fast, which makes it easy to book in a hurry and miss the small print. At Marbela Beach Resort on Morjim, check-out on 31 December is not permitted, so a New Year stay has to run to 1 January or later. Bookings are non-refundable: cancellations and no-shows are charged 100% of the stay. Check-in is 2:00 PM, and a guaranteed early check-in means booking the previous night, which matters when a December flight lands in the morning. Outside food, drinks and liquor are not allowed. Rates change daily on the booking engine, and breakfast depends on the room type or package. For what drives the cost, see December resort prices in North Goa.

December evenings on Morjim

December sunsets come early, at 6:01 PM on 1 December and 6:13 PM by the month's end in Panaji according to timeanddate, so a Morjim evening starts sooner than you might expect. Marbela's beach club runs from 11 AM until it closes at 10 PM, with sunbeds, cabanas, a pool and DJ sets at sunset. After that, Meso serves Mediterranean and Middle Eastern food until 11 PM, including an Italian seafood platter of prawns, calamari and fish at ₹1,600 on the current menu. Book a table on the Meso table booking page or on +91 91588 81184, and rooms on +91 91588 81185. Arriving in late November? Read our guide to Goa in November too.